Italy’s sensational Amalfi Coast of sinuous roads, soaring cliffs and gelato-hued houses is a prime summer hotspot. For the 13 towns of the coastline, the wider Campania region's tourism agency recorded 564,981 visitors in 2023, up 9% from 2019.
That number is likely set to rise next year, as a new airport makes accessing the notoriously hard-to-reach coastline a little easier. The Salerno Costa d'Amalfi airport is already partially open and welcomed flights from Milan, Berlin, London Gatwick, London Stansted and Malta this summer.
The Amalfi Coast is a one-of-a-kind destination that merits a visit at least once in a lifetime. So here are an Amalfi resident and travel expert’s tips on navigating the area and keeping your cool amongst the crowds.
‘I have Never Tasted Food Like This Before’
Sarah Thompson moved to the Amalfi Coast “for a tomato and a boy,” as she puts it. After doing a semester at a university in Rome, she stayed on and took up a job as a bartender in Sorrento, the gateway to the coastline.
A movie director may have been scripting her life, because it didn’t take long for her to fall for an Italian boy and his hometown. “He showed me around and I had no idea a place on Earth as beautiful as this existed! There was color everywhere: in the food, the buildings, the clothing, and the people,” she says.
That said, it may have been the vegetable that convinced her to stay. “At his family Sunday lunch, there was a bowl of tomatoes just decorated with a little bit of salt, olive oil, and basil,” she says. “I plucked a tomato out of the bowl with my fork and into my mouth and there was just an explosion of flavor. I’m pretty sure I have never tasted food like this before.”
‘The Locals On The Amalfi Coast Are Exhausted’
Thompson says tourism on the Amalfi Coast has grown significantly over the past 10 years. “The locals are exhausted and can’t truly enjoy the beauty of their town during the warmer months of the year,” she says. “It’s also gotten increasingly expensive and the space between budget vacationing and luxury travel is becoming noticeably greater.”
However, she is also seeing more of a focus on sustainable tourism and protecting the environment. Thompson founded a company called Luxama Travel which guides visitors around the coastline. “I always encourage my clients to respect local customs, limit plastic usage and avoid overcrowding sensitive areas by exploring off-peak,” she says.
‘Purchase Locally And Give Out Grazies Like Candy’
Thompson places importance on encouraging her clients to act responsibly when visiting the Amalfi Coast. She says supporting local businesses and preserving the natural beauty through sustainable practices is key.
“The Amalfi Coast is not a circus nor a theme park where you can walk around yelling and screaming, throwing trash on the ground and expecting other people to pick it up for you at the end of the day,” she says. “You also can’t just assume that because you’re on vacation you are more entitled to skipping lines and expect everything to be served on a silver platter.”
She reminds clients that local residents here work to make a year’s salary in six months, “working tirelessly nearly 12 hours a day with maybe one day off a week if they are lucky.”
“These people are doing their best to give you a vacation of a lifetime and one of the best things you can do is to respect them and the place that they call home,” she says. “Purchase locally and give out ‘Grazies’ like candy.”
Best Ways To Avoid The Crowds On The Amalfi Coast
Visiting in the shoulder seasons—April, May, September or October—is a great way to avoid the summer rush.
“I also recommend exploring lesser-known towns and villages like Praiano, Tramonti and even Vietri sul Mare for a more peaceful experience,” says Thompson. “There are many tiny roads or ‘vicoletti’ you can explore on foot or by scooter.”
She suggests skipping the beach some days and exploring the mountains and hilly villages. “It’s usually at least five degrees cooler and less crowded,” she says.
“If budget isn’t a question, I would highly recommend chartering a yacht or sailboat and doing daily town visits so you don’t have to navigate the frustrating small and traffic-filled streets,” she adds.
For those looking to splash out, Thompson can arrange private yacht charters, exclusive wine tastings in ancient cellars, cooking classes with Michelin-starred chefs or private tours of historic villas.
Don’t Make These Mistakes When Visiting The Amalfi Coast
Many travelers underestimate the steepness, winding roads and traffic on the coastline. “Public transportation along the Amalfi Coast is not as reliable as US public transportation,” Thompson says. “The Amalfi Coast is incredibly hard to navigate: sometimes buses don’t stop because they’re full or a ferry is canceled because of the weather.”
“Another common mistake is not booking restaurants or tours in advance during peak season, which can lead to missed opportunities. I ensure that all details are arranged ahead of time for a smooth experience,” she adds.
